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Sunday, October 01, 2006

those who are the last to be defeated

One of my first entries focused on the type of harassment I received in this country. I also wrote about how an older gentleman silently took me under his wing on the way to work and protected me from the barrage of sexual comments.

While I'm sure this entry was a darling feel-good story. It has rarely been repeated and after 4 months in this country, I am sad to say, Egyptian Self-Policing has essentially been revealed as either hypocrisy or a myth.

I have been ass-grabbed while walking, felt up in crowded sidewalks, and had my thigh molested by an 11-year-old boy who looked me in the eyes and leered in English "I like sex!"

I've chased every man who's laid a hand on me and yelled "Haram Aleek" (Shame, shame on you) and done my best to batter them in any way I can.

According to AIESEC, guidebooks and people who have their heads up their asses, this sort of reaction on my part should produce a flood of kofta-eating knights in shining armor stepping in and stopping the molesters. No Luck, I chased a kid on a bicycle for a block after he grabbed me, and all the adults did was crane their necks to stare at the white girl running in flip flops.

Last night, was probably the low point of my time here in Egypt. I was walking from Downtown to Dokki, in the early evening, on a fairly bustling street through a nice part of town and a man came up behind me, wrapped his arms fully around me like a bear-hug in order to grab my ass. I shrieked in surprise at being demobilized and he got spooked and ran.

I chased him, beating him with my purse, yelling as loud as I could. The groups of people around me just kept walking. A taxi pulled to the side of the road to see if the recent harassment has dissuaded me from walking, and maybe would I prefer the comfort of an overpriced cab?

At that point, I gave up. I sat down on the side of the road and had myself a good cry.

I am sorry, but I am tired of this country treating me like its own personal dry-hump doll. I punched that child who told me he wanted to have sex with me, I've spit at people, I've yelled, I've ignored it. It doesn’t do any good.

Egyptians still fail to step in when they see it happen, but pat themselves on the back because all the guidebooks give them credit for taking care of foreigners. The treatment of Western women in this country is a serious problem, and one I don’t know the solution to. All I'm certain of is it doesn’t rely on the population punishing the offender. A better measure has to be taken. While there have been a few times someone has tried to help stop overpricing in shops or cabs, not once has someone stepped up when I have been assaulted.

The treatment I receive simply for being female and white is dragging on me. It makes it hard for me to fulfill the mission I was supposedly brought here to do- bridge the gap. Sexual assault isn't a cultural misunderstanding. It is about a lack of respect. It is about treating people as objects, and fundamentally regardless of age, race, background, these men who touch me know it is wrong.

Claiming it’s a cultural issue is essentially saying as a woman, I lack basic human rights, but its okay, because you know, this is Egypt after all.

It makes it hard to want to open myself up to a culture that makes me feel so threatened that I always walk on the traffic side when passing people on the road because I am afraid of being pinned against cars.

It's hard to respect the people when the majority of my interactions with Egyptian males involve some kind of intimidation.

For every man that gestures at me or gropes me, there are 300 who walk by peaceably. But these fellows just don't leave an imprint the same way a guy who corrals you against the walls of a mosque in order to leer and gesture at your breasts with his hands does.

While I understand that the behavior is a representation of only a segment of the overall population. It happens often enough and has enough of an effect on me that I am always on the offensive. And I have yet to see that Egyptian alpha male take on the "someday my prince will come" void.

What makes me sad is that the bad is starting to eclipse the good in this city, and when I leave, there is a chance all I'll remember is how often I wanted to attack, not the great adventures (which have slowed to a non-existent halt) or the many times I felt welcomed and included.

I am actively trying to reignite my love affair with this city, and hopefully in a couple weeks, I will have a couple more cute stories about break dancing under my belt, and everything will be fine again.

12 Comments:

Tom Gara said...

I love Egypt to the bottom of my heart, but it has to be said - this behaviour, and the way it is tolerated and accepted by Egyptians, is a national fucking disgrace, and a shame to all Egyptians.

5:30 PM  
Miss Canthus said...

I feel for you Liz. Brings back memories of being in Istanbul 33 yrs ago. Many times men walking towards me would stick their hand in my crotch. I hit one and he hit me back!

One evening I went to a movie there and when I saw the incredibly sexy ads for a body lotion and pantyhose, I immediately understood why they treat us western females the way they do. If some western women are willing to pose nude for ads, then we must all being dying to strip down for any male we see, right?

How about carrying a stick? Something like the British Bobbies carry. Go to this page for pics: http://www.policelot.com/props_equipment.htm. One with a strap that you keep around your wrist (prevents you from wanting to throw it at the jerk).

I envision you walking authoritatively down the street, truncheon flicking in and out of your hand (have you ever seen Greeks with their worry-beads?) You need to make it obvious that you have a weapon and you need to appear like you will actually use it. Or holding it in your right hand and frequently smacking it into your left hand.

I hope you can succeed in educating at least one of the jerks. But alas, you will never get them all...

6:32 PM  
Miss Canthus said...

OOOPs!!! You are Megan. Sorry!!

6:34 PM  
Kaitlin said...

Megan, I am so worked up on this issue that I have rewritten my post here several times.

Everytime an Egyptian allows this to happen around them, even if they disagree, they are teaching defeatest attitudes towards change for women.

It is disgusting. The biggest influence upon changing this is Egyptian Men with some balls standing up and holding others accountable...

8:26 AM  
AIESEC said...

Hey,
I never met you, but I am an AIESEC person setting up this organization in Jordan, right near by. Last two weeks I was in the provincial town, not capital, building up an LC there. I was alone, and believe me that was a hell of stared at, talked at & laughed off. Thanks, God, I was not touched...

I know its hard & it was pissing me off like crazy. First two days I was going mad, even though I really love JOrdan. Still have no clue how to solve this problem..

I guess, our job is to make sure all the good guys, who have guts & know how to behave with women, bring this topic up among their fellows & just behave properly themselves, as well as protect any woman they see being harrassed.

I keep my fingers crossed fro you & wish you still to enjoy your time in the Middle East!

Best regards,
Oksana
Jordan

8:39 AM  
nadooz said...

I really dont know why does this issue so much related to Egypt and Egyptians , yet these kind of attitudes happen all around the word and i literally say ALL,,and guess what........ no one does anything too ,not a shocking fact ???i guess thats what happens ,happend to me in every country I've been to ,EVERY, if u want me to specify some names well ur welcome but as i dont feel good my country being accused in such an inconvenient way ,i refuse to do that to other countries too,and also for the record no and i repeat no Egyptian accepts this kind of attitude ,me as a member in this society I act I go to the nearest police officer ,nearest gas station ,nearest shop and say i need help coz so happened and i always get help ,always find people helping me in whatever situation i am in but the point is in reaching for help to the correct hands ,u cant go to a drunk and tell him help me ( not logical at all ).
we as an eastern culture ( not as Egypt only )being conservative in our clothing is one of the first points of not being harrased.
I've been living in this country for 10 years and another 12 years in another arab country and i travel annually around the world ,i face being harrased as a women and as an arab (even more)through out my 22 years but to be frank and GOD knows i never had that kind of harrassement in Egypt as much as i had it outside Egypt .
Also for whom who say that Egyptian guys all they care about is their balls well I've been vailed for two years now ,theres no guy who dares to look at me,just a look , they always look with their faces dowm (out of respect )..

All i can say now is that i am really sorry for this unfortunate situation or even more than one , really i wish i was there to tell u exactly what to do but as women we always been taught up to : stand out for our selves and always speak up coz theres always someone listenning .
Again really sorry for what happened and would love to change that negative point of view and also change this attitude every where ..
this behaviour is a shame and a disgrace,not just to all Egyptians but to every human being.

Regards,
Nada EL-Saeid
Egypt.

9:48 AM  
Thea said...

hi megan... i've never met you, but i've heard about you... I personally don't think you should get that worked up on this. I have lived in Egypt for almost a year, and ass grabbing, boob grabbing and thigh touching has happened. I also had two occassions of men actually masturbating!!! One of them was close to the beach where his penis was very visible and the other was a taxi driver which i found to be the most disgusting and disrespectful and it made me feel sooo dirty!!!! I think the more you run after them, hit them and whatever the more you encourage them, as they like and laugh at the reaction of women..... I do understand that it might be hard to ignore.... but i look at it as though these men are ignorant people...... and as someone mentioned here, they are actually to be pitied, as they do not know other due to the media and what its portraying of the western world.........

10:27 PM  
Detrie said...

I just wanted to thank everyone for weighing in their opinions. Essentially, how I react to being assaulted is what works best for me. Ignoring it makes me feel like I've lost control of my own independence. Hitting them with a purse at least left me fighting back, not meakly walking on.

I can't agree with just ignoring it. Nothing will ever change if we quietly brush it all off.

I was living in this country for 3 and a half months before the harassment hit this breaking point with me. Previously I let it slide like you were able to, but I'm always going to swing back. Its who I am. Ignoring it might deny them their satisfaction, but it denies me mine as well.

Either way, there is a can of pepper spray safely tucked in the outer pouch of my purse and after seeing what happens when I get the police involved, I'll stick with temporarily blinding them on my own. thanks.

12:06 PM  
Superluli said...

I disagree with the fact that Egypt is not different than any country in harassment. It happens everywhere yes, but the level of pervertedness here is a lot more that i have ever seen. Some guys think girls like it even!

Megan it sucks that you and every other girl faces that, but there are ways to avoid it.
To be completely blunt about this -you could dress a little more conservatively. Tight tops that show your belly even with a scarf over them are not conservative enough. buy a long loose jacket and wear it whenever you are on the street - this is what i, and many other egyptians do. Make sure the jacket is long ehough to cover your butt and that your belly doesn't show.
I am speaking from 23 years of experience, so trust me it will make a difference

12:16 PM  
Miss Canthus said...

Megan, I definitely understand your need to fight back. If we continue to allow it to happen we are not doing anyone a favour.

However I am quite sure that they enjoy being chased, so I really don't think that is the answer. That may be what they want!

I agree with dressing conservatively. When I wore a long coat in Istanbul, no one tried anything. When I wore a short jacket was when the jerks "had access".

BTW, Istanbul was the only place in Turkey that I had such problems. Otherwise I loved the country.

I later encountered problems in Morocco too.

Learn to walk authoritatively. That is an important posture to adopt in all countries, even western ones.

8:17 PM  
Soad said...

hey Megan
I emailed you my comment because there are some things that are mentioned are quite personal.
If you feel like discussing issues further maybe after NLDS.
sincerely,
Soad
VPICX AIESEC AUC, EGYPT 05-06

5:19 PM  
Nora Hamdy said...

Hey Megan,
I also do not know you.. but you seem to know quite a few people I know so we are most likly going to meet sometime.
I just wanted to tell you that I am sorry that this is happening to you.
When I first came to Egypt I went through it too. I have been grabbed, touched, violated, pushed into offices, kissed, men have masturbated with me in the cab (like 3 times).. I have seen a lot of crappy things here too. (but I still love Egypt with all my heart)

I know how it feels to want to kill them.. and I have tried pretty much everything that people are advising you to do. (My brother once gave me a knife and pepper spray too.. ;o))
I think that Luli's advice about dressing conservatively is definately gonna help. Even if you do not want to change how you dress just invest in a large scarf. It will cover you up when you need to.
Also, when this happens try telling a guy on the street. This has always worked for me. Maybe Egyptians will not just help you by themselves.. but almost everytime I have told a man about what has happened he has run to kick the guys ass and save the day. Egyptians do like to be Prince Charming... but maybe you can push them a bit.
I think that involving the police is not helpful. The policemen that I asked for help were actually the ones who denied it to me. (Ironic I guess..)
Anyways, walk firm and straight and be aware of your surroundings. And do not be afraid to ask for help...
I always just ask if there are any men around who are going to help.. or will they just let it happen. Men love defending their manhood!!
Best of luck... and I hope we meet soon!
Most importantly, just do what makes you feel better at the end of the day.

If you need anything.. like help or advice just e-mail me norahamdy@gmail.com

Take care...

4:01 PM  

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